Small floral prints, rich combinations of pattern, subdued colour, a narrow silhouette: there was a real aesthetic at work here, and it was based on the possibility of real women wearing real clothes for real lives. You won't find the blockbuster show-stopper on the runway of Sabyasachi. What you will find is a wardrobe for an attitude of mind and a way of life.
And this designer scores because he has learned that hardest of all four-letter words for a designer to learn. It begins with an e and ends with a t. Editing a collection is second in importance only to designing it, in my opinion, and yet very few designers realise that on a runway less is always more. The shorter and sharper the statement, the greater its impact. That is why Sabyasachi's runway presented such a clear and concise statement of his thinking and had those who know about fashion, rather than blingy dresses, all saying, 'Yes. That was it.'
Sabyasachi's aesthetic appeals to the individual because it has the confidence of a creator who has, at the risk of sounding pretentious, a design philosophy – a very different thing from just sending a few commercial looks down your catwalk. This designer deserves a wide audience.