Sunday, 14 February 2010

Copenhagen Fashion Week shows: Ole Yde, Minimarket, Margit Brandt

Ole Yde; photos: Copenhagen Fashion Week

My time at Copenhagen Fashion Week became a little confused towards the end and things unravelled enough for me to miss a few shows. The situation was not helped by the fact that some of the shows were scheduled for very late. Anyone ready to look at frocks after 11pm, folks? You know the answer. Unless it is a sure-fire winner on the level of Galliano, Prada or Ralph Lauren, who in his or her right mind wants to be leaving a show after midnight? And I gather that things were even later at least once in Copenhagen.

It isn't just that even the keenest fashionista suffers from frock fatigue at that sort of hour. It is also the fact that the show stops being a professional presentation for a professional audience and becomes a hyped-up party for friends, liggers and people there to enjoy the experience. And I can tell you, professionals are there for one reason only – to assess and enjoy the clothes. Thank God, we are rarely so sad as to make looking at a fashion show at a time of day when others are enjoying a civilised dinner part of our social life. And we always know that the organisation of a late-night show, with hundreds of gatecrashers, is a logistical nightmare that always overwhelms the organisers as seats are stolen, professional guests ignored and the total confusion of mixing party-goers with workers reigns. It always makes me think, 'These people are not ready yet for a grown-up commitment, so why give it?'

In contrast Ole Yde presented his collection in the ordered calm of the Georg Jensen flagship store at Amagertorv. It was the right setting for the luxurious clothes that were sent down the runway, featuring the 'Daisy' collection of Jensen jewellery based on Denmark's national flower and apparently a great favourite of HM Queen Margrethe. This was, like the show of the long-established company, Margit Brandt, very grown-up clothing. From the two poles of the fashion spectrum, they represented the extremes of Danish fashion: at one end, demi-couture, at the other clothes for every woman.

Lastly, in a week of so much unrelieved black I was delighted with Minimarket, a label not afraid to penetrate the gloom with strong flashes of colour. Reminiscent at times of Pierre Cardin and even Benetton in their heyday, the show was full of fun, although I was not convinced by the airhostess hats (postmodern wit, or merely a bad memory trip?) and found the African mask make up added nothing to the story. Just the opposite, in fact.

Minimarket; photos: Copenhagen Fashion Week

Margit Brandt; Photos: Copenhagen Fashion Week

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