Saturday, 13 February 2010

Copenhagen Fashion Week shows: Noir, Munthe Plus Simonsen, Designers Remix Collection

Noir: Photos Copenhagen Fashion Week

A beautiful blonde walking towards you in a blizzard. Every happy heterosexual male’s fantasy, surely. And certainly one that was amply fulfilled at the Munthe Plus Simonsen show on Thursday night at Copenhagen Fashion Week. It was a slick and highly professional presentation of wearable, sexy clothes in a subdued palette of grey, black and sand, with strong knits and sheepskins – not surprisingly, with the city deep in snow. It will have wide commercial appeal.

More complex in its references, Designers Remix Collection by Charlotte Eskildsen looked to the recent collections of Chanel, Valentino and Balmain – which makes the label’s name very appropriate. The mood was dark, even gothic. Feathers, frills, twisted ribbons – we had seen everything many times. But there is a talent here that could flourish and flower if only it can break away from the footsteps of Paris and walk boldly to its own creative rhythm.

There was the same sense of déjà vu at the most interesting of the evening’s shows, by Noir. Picking up on John Galliano’s obsession with underwear as outerwear that has been a recent feature of Dior couture, Noir went a stage further. He had the models appear in bra and pants and then proceed to dress each other, at a languorously erotic pace which, aided by a soundtrack of Nina Simone, had overtones of lesbianism, bordellos and even S&M. There was simmering sexuality in the air but the clothes were bound to be secondary in such a strong presentational statement. Appropriate to the name of the label, black was the colour du jour – or should I say nuit, as the collection consisted entirely of evening wear. A broader approach and a lot less referencing would help the clothes live up to the presentation possibly.

Designers Remix Collection: Photos Copenhagen Fashion Week

Munthe Plus Simonsen: Photos Copenhagen Fashion Week

1 comment:

  1. I was a stockist of Munthe Plus Simonsen in the late '90s - the designs have always been original, but the pieces very wearble too. Glad to hear the label is still going strong and that you are a fan, though I heard that Karen Simonsen is no longer involved. Perhaps the brand should be renamed Munthe Minus Simonsen?