Thursday, 24 September 2009

Three to Notice

So, the dust has begun to settle after LFW but there is a little more to add. I was sorry to miss several shows – such as Marios Schwab, Todd Lynn and Christopher Kane – because I was involved with Fashion Fringe@Covent Garden, which was on the same day; and some shows whose invitations didn't survive the postal strike. One was actually given to me today. Better luck next season. But I can't wind up without commenting on three really worthwhile designers.

Richard Nichol is a very interesting guy whose thought processes are subtle and even delicate – attributes that are quite rare in London. His show was gentle, softly coloured, layered and fringed, with the ease of a sarong or Hawaiian grass skirt, but above all it reflected the growing confidence of someone who is absolutely his own man. Another designer who was more interesting than most was Holly Fulton, who showed as part of Fashion East. An intelligent, witty and sharply focused graphic sense made for a very powerful and colourful statement using patent leather, perspex, crystal and metal for a space-age look based on the excitement of Manhattan's architecture. Fulton has a design vision that augers well for a future that might not follow the current young London designer approaches, which are usually so repetitive that I keep thinking that I am seeing the same show over and over again. One designer who would never do that is Peter Jensen, whose quirky humour and original approach to presentation has given us some memorable moments over the years. This season, his small but cleverly focused restatement of Fifties' fashion involved tiny dressed dolls, cut outs, models and a great deal of fun. He is an original in the way that Antoni and Alison are… and should be cherished for standing outside the sea of sameness.